
Today is, by the calendar’s own logic, the single worst day of the year to be thinking about Christmas. The 31st of July sits almost exactly six months from the 25th of December, the furthest point from it you can possibly be. And yet here I am, sitting in a British heatwave, scrolling back through photos of the trip that made me feel more Christmas than any actual December ever has.
In December 2023, my best friend Doug and I booked a trip to Finland with one hope pinned to the whole thing: seeing the Northern Lights. We’re both big kids at heart, so we went all in and what we got back was, without exaggeration, the most unexpected, incredible trip of my life.
Helsinki Felt Like Walking Into a Film

We started in Helsinki, and the timing couldn’t have been better. The Christmas markets were in full swing in the main square, mulled wine, fairy lights, the whole city wrapped up against the cold and clearly enjoying it. It felt, genuinely, like walking onto a film set. Neither of us had really clocked how good Helsinki is at Christmas until we were standing in the middle of it.
The Overnight Train North


Because we’re both big kids, there was only one way we were getting to Rovaniemi: the Santa Claus Express, the overnight sleeper train that runs straight up through Finland while you sleep. We boarded in Helsinki in the evening and woke up, somewhere past the Arctic Circle, right as dawn was breaking over Rovaniemi. Waking up on a moving train to a landscape that’s gone from ordinary to properly Arctic overnight is one of those small, brilliant travel moments that’s hard to explain to anyone who wasn’t there.
First order of business once we’d arrived? Breakfast at the world’s northernmost McDonald’s. Was it necessary? No. Did we do it anyway, purely because we could? Absolutely.
Meeting Santa, and Meaning It



Santa Claus Village is touristy and there’s no getting around that but it’s touristy in a way that’s hard to be cynical about once you’re actually there. Watching the genuine, wide-eyed energy of the kids around us, all of them absolutely certain they were meeting the real thing, was infectious. We met Santa ourselves, wandered the village, and left grinning like idiots. Sometimes “touristy” and “genuinely special” aren’t opposites, this was one of those times.
Out to the Ranch Near Pyhä



From Rovaniemi we travelled out to a beautiful accommodation called Lucky Ranch in Pyhä, and this is where the trip really opened up. Over the next few days we went reindeer sledding and husky sledding, took a snowmobile out through the alpine forest, and even helped build the ice igloo we’d end up sleeping in that night, which, it turns out, gives you a whole new respect for the people who build them properly.
That igloo, by the way, gave me the best night’s sleep of my life. I went in expecting to lie awake shivering and counting down the hours. Instead there was something about the total silence, the insulated cold, the reindeer skins underneath us, I was out within minutes and slept straight through until morning. I still don’t fully understand how a room made of ice managed that, but I’m not arguing with it.
We also did a proper Finnish sauna followed by a cold plunge, which is every bit as brutal and every bit as brilliant as everyone says. There’s a very specific kind of euphoria that hits about ten seconds after you get out of the cold water, and no amount of being told about it beforehand actually prepares you for it.
The Lights, When We Least Expected Them

Here’s the part I still can’t quite believe. The forecast that night gave us a 2% chance of seeing the aurora. Two per cent. We’d more or less made peace with not seeing them at all, which, when the entire trip had been built around the hope of it, felt like a proper gut punch.
Then, late that night, I stepped out of our ice igloo for a toilet break, about as unglamorous a moment as travel offers, looked up out of habit, and there they were. Green light, moving, right over our heads, on the 2% night nobody expected anything from. I stood there in the cold for a good few minutes before I even thought to go back in and get Doug.
You can plan a trip around the Northern Lights all you like. In the end, ours found us in the middle of snow at 1am, mid-toilet-run, on the night the odds said don’t bother looking up.
Why I’m Already Planning to Go Back

It’s the 31st of July. It’s warm. Christmas is, on paper, about as far away as it’s possible to be. And I’m sitting here thinking that if I book now, in the quiet, un-festive middle of summer, I’ll get the trip dates I actually want before everyone else starts thinking about Christmas in, well, December. And I loved it that much, I am planning to bring my whole family over from Australia next winter.
That’s really what this is: not nostalgia, but a nudge. If Lapland’s been on your list, the best time to book your winter trip is right now, while everyone else is thinking about beaches instead of the aurora. The amazing thing about Lapland, that christmas charm, is the whole period through the winter, with all these experiences being most prominent from start of December to end of February.
Have you been? I’d love to know what stuck with you most!
Trips like this one aren’t something you do twice a year, or even twice a decade, they’re the once-in-a-lifetime kind, and they deserve to be done properly. That’s why we’ve put together three ways into Lapland, depending on what kind of trip you’re after:
- The Premium Experience — a night in a glass igloo, watching the aurora from your bed the way I watched it from a car park at 1am, minus the toilet run.
- The Family Lapland Experience — Santa Claus Village, reindeer, and all the wide-eyed magic that made Doug and me feel like kids again, built for travelling with your own. With the option of the day on the ski slopes.
- The Adventure Lapland Experience — husky sledding, snowmobiling and everything else that had us out in the snow rather than looking at it through a window.
Take a look at our Lapland tours and find the version of this trip that’s yours, we can get you under that sky before December ever arrives.
Explore the world differently with Untravelled Paths. Small groups, big experiences, and places you won’t find in the brochures.
Written by Jackson Cornish
The post Ending a Christmas in July: Still Thinking About My Trip to Lapland appeared first on Untravelled Paths.
from Untravelled Paths https://blog.untravelledpaths.com/blog/christmas-lapland-end-of-year/







































